Dinner last night was at the two Michelin starred Madonnina del Pescatore, which was excellent. But the process of getting there displayed Italy at both its most gracious and frustrating. There are two destination restaurants -both with two stars and both specializing in seafood- in this smallish coastal town and we had originally reserved a table at the other one. Three months and many emails ago, in both Italian and English.
But holy pain in the brain! If we had planned on - wrangling? Ensnaring?- more than one reservation for dinner on this whole trip I'd have ground my teeth down to oogatz. The whole thing was a matter of dueling compulsions: one to give up and eat elsewhere, and the other to try, try again, because we had already booked hotel rooms and committed to the drive and dinner was the point of coming to Senigallia in the first place.
Anyway, we were glad to have ended up at Madonnina instead, although they too had lost our reservation despite two confirmation emails and a phone call.
The first restaurant - the one we couldn't eat at- kindly arranged for a bottle of Champagne to be sent to our table last night in apology. Which was delightful and unexpected.
In the end, yay.